Copper peptides (GHK-Cu), explained without the hype

Copper peptides are having a moment, which means a lot of what is written about them is oversold. Here is the plain version.

GHK-Cu is a small molecule: three amino acids (glycine, histidine, lysine) bound to a copper ion. It occurs naturally in human plasma, and its level falls as we age. It was first isolated and described by Loren Pickart in the 1970s, and it has been studied ever since.

What the research actually shows, about the molecule:

• In cultured skin cells, GHK-Cu stimulates collagen synthesis (Maquart and colleagues, FEBS Letters, 1988).
• A 2018 review in the International Journal of Molecular Sciences describes it increasing collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis, supporting skin cells, and acting as an antioxidant.
• A review of controlled studies on aged skin reports firmer-looking skin and a reduced appearance of fine lines and wrinkles (Pickart, Journal of Biomaterials Science, 2008).

Those are findings about GHK-Cu in the literature. They are not results measured on any one serum, and they are not a promise about your face.

What copper peptides are good at, in cosmetic terms: the look of firmness and smoothness, and the appearance of fine lines. What they are not: a filler, a peel, or a substitute for sunscreen. They are a slow, steady ingredient, best judged over weeks.

Two practical notes:

• Do not layer copper peptides with pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid), strong AHA or BHA exfoliants, or benzoyl peroxide in the same step. Use them at different times of day.
• Air is the enemy. Copper peptides oxidise. Buy them in an airless pump, not a dropper, and use the bottle within its life.

If you want the number checked rather than trusted, Good Measure states 0.20% w/w Copper Tripeptide-1 on the label and publishes a certificate for the product. Shop the GHK-Cu Copper Peptide Serum.